The Taiwan Strait Up

Going long on the Dong

By Garrreth Bird

Taiwan is an island nation 180 km off the coast of mainland China. Along the island’s spine runs a dense mountain range, meaning that in a country just a little bigger than Belgium there are 165 mountains over 3000 meters high.

I had been wanting to travel east for some time, to stretch the bounds of my western filter bubble. Considering how much of humanity lives in Asia, I realized I didn’t have a solid frame of reference for a lot of the world. And I have felt very far away from China, the tiger of that neighbourhood.MCSA Slideshow-3

And there were fascinating things happening in Taiwan台湾. The Sunflower Revolution had seen huge groups of youths storm the legislature and shut it down, protesting the unilateral moves by the China-friendly president to more closely integrate with China’s economy. There was a vibrant energy in Taipei.

And there was also the matter of a highly-regarded rock climbing area, these being on sea cliffs not far from the capital, with 500 sport and trad routes on offer. Taiwan sounded like a place where adventure could easily be found. I didn’t know a single person there, but off to the world’s 4th highest island I flew.

 CLIMBING

Taiwan’s main crag is Long Dong 龍洞. This raises many an eyebrow, but in Mandarin “Long” 龍 is dragon and “Dong”  洞 is cave, named after the largest amongst the cliffs. There are many crags, joined by short hops or scrabbles, featuring a fantastic array of climbing:  crimpy faces, cracks, bouldery corners and roofs, up to 2 or 3 pitches on a variety of sandstone that can feel a lot like granite. And tucked away up in an amphitheater is the impressive Grand Auditorium, a mostly trad area.

It is a pretty spectacular setting for a crag. On days when it’s boiling hot you snorkel in the turquoise ocean. Some routes are only climbable with the tides. Around typhoons the ocean gets outrageously wild, and feeling the crimpers you are clinging to vibrate as giant waves slam into the wall below is an experience I shall never forget.

In many areas bolted routes and trad lines exist side by side depending on the route requirements. It is one of the more successful examples of this ethic I have encountered. Long Dong has common cause with Tonsai in Thailand when it comes to hardware being eaten by the salty air. Bolt failure incidents are a common hazard, on one occasion both top anchors failed on rappel, and a plethora of totally corroded bolts are regularly removed. The decision to aim for titanium was reached quite early on.

And road trips out of the city, the amazing fishing villages along the way, sharing ropes with interesting people and climbing cool routes, then beers and food afterwards at some bustling market, and so much is new and fresh and what a way to go!

There is the small issue of Mandarin of course, a language you WILL NOT onsight. Even a multi-year red point siege may not be enough. But the combination of locals, ex-pats, ABC’s (American-Born Chinese), Mainland visitors, tourists and many other interesting people, not least the thriving academic exchange program scene, provide help negotiating the language barrier.

RIVER TRACING TO NEEDLE MOUNTAIN 針山

Because of the geography, plentiful rainfall and regular high temperatures, “river tracing” is another popular outdoor activity here. It involves following a water course upstream as the gorge it occupies steepens, negotiating rivers, rapids and waterfalls as high as you dare go.

My friends Nate and Emma had discovered that the highest ‘wall’ in Taiwan was a 500 meter broken face on a remote peak called Needle Mountain針山. This route was a serious undertaking, mostly because it required a technical 2 day river trace to reach the bottom of. As I understood it, it had only had two ascents: the first party had lost one of their team members when they drowned in the powerful river; and the next had been hit by successive typhoons whilst up the river course and it had taken them nearly a month before they were able to return from their adventure! With rain predicted a few days hence, and these stories at the front of our minds, we set out to recce the route to the base of the wall.

It was an amazing journey up into an ever deepening gorge. The scenery was startling and the route often fairly outrageous. We got all the way up into the bosom of the mountain, where the face started to kick up, and marveled at the logistics required to get all your gear and sustenance up here before you even started climbing. What an epic mission that mountain would be! For now our weather window was closing, so we hiked out the gorge to natural hot springs down the course.

HIKING

There is some absolutely superb hiking to be done throughout Taiwan.  The highest mountain, Yu Shan (玉山, 3952m) is obviously very popular, requiring some permit acquisition aerobics, but there are reams of other peaks to choose from too, most of which are far more scenic than Yu Shan itself. My favourites were Nanhuda Shan (南湖大山,3,742 m)  and the nearby Zhongyangjian (中央尖山, 3,705 m), which we did in winter when most of the higher peaks are snow-covered. Permits are free and obtained online, and there are huts in the mountains that one may use. There is a famous list of 100 peaks above 3000 meters that are much coveted should you want a stiff challenge, or perhaps need something else to do once falling in love with the Formosa Isle.

YOU MIGHT ALSO BE INTERESTED IN:

CYCLING

Taiwan is super bike-friendly. There are dedicated lanes shared with scooters in most parts of every city, and fantastic roads that head out into the hills. A 15 minute ride outside of Taipei and you find yourself in another world. There is even an official route that circumvents the whole island, usually completed in 10 days or so. And you don’t have to take your own bike with you; many of the top-name bike manufacturers like Giant are located here and can be bought for cheap or rented for the time you need them.

WATERSPORTS

Outside of typhoons the ocean is very conducive to canoeing. You can travel right down the dramatic east coast if you so desire. We paddled out to the volcanic Turtle Island (Guishan Isand), bobbing about under otherworldly cliffs, slipping across bubbling fumaroles and luminous turquoise waters. Although, i’m not really a canoeist and being totally pumped in the arms after 25 km of paddling and then finding oneself bouncing around in a windy shipping lane on the way back was quite the experience!

TAIWAN OVERVIEW

Taiwan is very densely populated, but development is concentrated in small areas. Serious rain on mountainous terrain means that landslides are common in the hills, and frequent earthquakes don’t make things any safer. This results in a lot of open space for a populated country, and allows for a great mix of urban life and the outdoors. The capital Taipei is itself situated in a basin surrounded by mountains and steep hills, and you can take many subway lines to their conclusion and head immediately up onto hiking trails.

MORE ABOUT TAIWAN

Why is Taiwan an independent country in everything but name?

By the end of the Chinese civil war in 1950 Mao and his communists had won. Chiang Kai Shek’s Nationalists were forced to flee in a massive movement of people and equipment to Taiwan, protected from invasion by the Taiwan Strait, the ocean channel that separates Taiwan from the mainland. Communist mainland China became “The People’s Republic of China”, whilst Taiwan became “The Republic of China” and those names remain as the official titles of both countries to this day. China always saw Chiang’s escape to Taiwan as a kind of theft, and coveted a return of the ‘wayward province’ back into the bosom of the mainland. It still does.

Today, Taiwan is a nation reveling in its own democracy. They recently elected a progressive woman who is known to favour moves towards independence. However, if that happens, China has threatened to invade. Oops, yes, there is that. To drive home the point there are over 1600 Chinese missiles aimed at Taiwan at any one time. Taiwan is prevented from fully integrating with the international community, often having to endure demeaning workarounds, like when China insists they be called “Chinese Taipei” at the Olympics.

One morning while I was at home in Taipei I heard the PA system that is a feature of most city streets spring to life. Immediately it began blaring out a wailing air-raid siren. What the hell was going on?! My Taiwanese housemate was at work, so I looked out of my window to see if there was someone I could use my pathetic Mandarin on to try and get information out of, but the streets were absolutely deserted. Was this the zombie apocalypse? I phoned one of the expats whom I had come to know: “Relax, it’s nothing to worry about! That’s just an air raid drill. Everyone just has to stay inside.” Oh. At least there isn’t a typhoon or earthquake or flood or landslide… or zombie apocalypse. Just practice in case the Chinese invade!

GENERAL INFO

Taiwan is a very safe country, with crime so rare as to be almost non-existent.

It is very affordable, with food and transport being really cheap. Formal accommodation is a little more expensive, but there are plenty of opportunities to camp cheaply or for free. Most trips into the mountains do not cost anything. Permits are generally free too, though sometimes a translation gap on websites necessitates local assistance to properly negotiate. You will also need to plan ahead a bit for these.

This is a really convenient country! There is a well stocked 7-11 or equivalent on almost every street corner throughout the entire country, although less so in the deep mountains. They have all manner of mobile snacks available.

There is enough English to get by, especially in Taipei. When struggling outside of the capital, most young people will speak some English and be super keen to help.

South African’s get a month visa-free, with 3 months available if you need it.

Stars in the Eyes of Myself as a Child

In tribute to Celestial Journey, among the most legendary climbing lines in the land.

(*A glossary of jargon appears at the end)

I was 12 and I could hardly believe my eyes.

Something…clinging to nothing… in the middle of a smooth, blank wall.

An isolated climber. Waaaay up. Prone and desperate. The void below seemed to draw them down like a stone.

That was the first time I saw someone on Celestial Journey, clinging tentatively to the ‘Grey Face’, a canvas of rock as spare as it is sheer. The position, far above the valley floor, was startling. To be THAT climber, on THAT route… well, it seemed like madness. Despite this, some switch in my youthful brain had tripped.

Celestial Blog-04000.jpg

Leo wrestles the off-width crack near the top of the route.

Way back then I was busy doing the famous ‘Wolfberg Cracks’ hike in the central Cederberg, a wilderness area 3 hours from Cape Town. The hike takes one through wondrous fissures that split the Wolfberg buttress on its southern end. These labyrinthine gullies have left behind giant fins of rock that jut up like exclamation points into the sky. But just before they do their damage the buttress is at its most proud, and a towering collision of fiery orange and gunmetal-silver dares any interloper to throw caution into the wind on one of its stern lines.

And throw caution someone did, now more than 36 years ago, as David Davies and Robin Barley put together what was to become one of South Africa’s most revered rock climbs. This was no mean feat. The route turned out to be consistently tricky, and they did it ground-up, onsight, and without the benefit of today’s camming devices for protection. What kind of temerity allowed these two to head up into the centre of this wall without knowing exactly what they might find?

In 1978 David was 18 and Robin 23,  and from this time on David’s legend only grew. I never got to know him well before his tragically early passing from a brain tumour in 2010, but I do recall meeting him while hiking up to the cliffs of Table Mountain as a young man. He had a poodle tucked into a purpose-built bag on his back, and told us that he was heading up to go free-soloRoulette” (the name of a famous route). This was a very bold undertaking indeed…but he was doing it WITH THE DOG…well, that certainly left an impression. This turned out to be only one of a thick novels’ worth of tales that seemed to stream off the man like confetti as he went.

Celestial Blog-04029-Edit

The proud southern face of Wolfberg. Celestial Journey follows the red line.

So long ago, way up there on that intimidating wall, the Grey Face had seemed an insane proposition. Looking up at it now from the base of the route, despite the climbing experience I have gained in the intervening years, I still feel a shadow of nervousness shade across my face.

I am here with Leonard, a climbing partner with whom I have quickly formed a solid brotherhood of the rope, and we are both excited to finally have this legendary route in our sights. We prepare for our usual pre-route ritual: the Rock-Paper-Scissors game that determines who gets first choice of the ‘leads’.

SONY DSC

Some deep breaths at the base of the Grey Face. The line heads up between the two orange streaks. Pic by Leo.

Why care about who heads up each section, or ‘pitch‘, first? Well, leading a pitch is a purer form of climbing it. You get it fresh, every move a surprise, with the need to place gear to protect you as you go an extra demand on your psyche.

The rope that runs downwards between your legs towards the distant earth serves as a constant reminder of the need for focus, balance, to move efficiently… lest you end up slipping off into the expanse below. It is the full experience.

Before we can make the call I interject: “Dude! I have to get the Grey Face pitch. You can choose the next two.”

Leo nods his acceptance. I have spoken to him about my connection to this pitch before. And even though the Grey Face is justifiably iconic, the opening ‘Pea Pod” pitch is actually the more notorious of the 6. The route is graded at 22 (a measure of its difficulty) but people speak of the subjectivity of these numbers. The first pitch alone has befuddled more than a few climbers of renown.

Leo enthusiastically stakes his claim to it, then adds the 5th pitch off-width to his agenda. I take the 6th and final grade 22 pitch, and the remaining 2 fall where they do.

At the base of the wall we see the plaque dedicated to David affixed to the rock at the start of the route: ‘David Davies – Forever on your Celestial Journey.’ It only adds to the already cosmic dimensions of the grand but entirely suitable name. We will not carry only gear and rope with us up the route, but the weight of galactic legend as well.

Celestial Blog-03983.jpg

Leo entering the crux of the Pea Pod.

Leo ties into the rope and moves up towards the heavens. He climbs with confidence until he reaches the bottom of a smooth groove. This is the ‘pod’ into which the climber moves, thus becoming the ‘pea’.

Here, in line with the many tales we have heard, progress stalls. He tries a few options up the dihedral, but doesn’t seem very keen on any of the results, retreating back down each time. After a short while he decides he has hung about enough, and with great intent launches himself up into the glassy groove.

This turns out to have been a little rash, and within a few seconds he is bouncing back down towards me. The gear is good, so all is fine as I catch him, but He has a confused expression on his face and I judge him to be highly unsatisfied with the result.

It isn’t long before he once again wriggles up into the crux. I watch carefully to pry some useful information from his approach. But this timehe uses some slight-of-body manuever gleened from the dark climbing arts and wriggles up to a hold.

“Err…how exactly did you do that?!” I call up to him as he pants at a rest.

“…no…idea.” comes the rather curt reply. Leo is not in the mood for a chat. There is still plenty of climbing to be done.

When I get up into the Pea Pod it is clear what the problem is: there are simply no holds, and both sides of the groove are glassy smooth. Not being familiar with many suction techniques I revert to some desperate jamming, crimping and general thrutching about until I manage to coax my leg high enough to land the shoulder-high jug with the very tips of my toes. I almost burst a few blood vessels along the way, and nearly pop off mid-move, but soon I join Leo at the belay. Man, that’s some 22!

We continue up. Nothing comes easy but the climbing is top draw.

Soon I stand on a ledge at the base of a smooth, sculpted silver wall: the Grey Face. It is no less intimidating up close. It has taken me a very long time to stand here, but this fierce slab of rock cares not at all.  It seems so smooth, I wonder where the gear will go. The ledge that juts out below works on my mind: I may deck it if I fall.

There is a palpable tension in my body, so I take a few deep, steadying breaths.

Then I reach up for the tiny holds that will lift me from the ledge.

Celestial Blog-03995-3.jpg

Me on a tiny undercling, scanning for holds in the middle of the Grey Face. Pic by Leo.

The realities of the situation crowd my head, so I work to clear my thoughts. I narrow my focus to the few meters ahead and dig my fingers into tiny ripples in the wall. With my waist close I shift my balance onto my higher foot and slither up to gain an undercling. The clarity of intent brings stability, and each tenuous move up reveals another tiny fissure deep enough for the pad of a few fingers. Tiny crevices appear hear and there, enough to allow for some small gear placements. Gripping a small edge with one hand while fiddling the gear into the rock is nerve wracking, but it provides a welcome measure of security.

As I inch up further I begin to loose myself in the puzzle, to think with my whole body. After 15 meters of careful progress I must traverse a little, and I rail along above the void, feet smearing on featureless rock. It is fantastic. I am strung out between the power of surging adrenaline and the calm of rhythmic intent. The moves aren’t exactly easy, but wings seem to have sprung from my back.

Suddenly just the present moment seems to hold all the time I have been alive. I am THAT cimber, on THAT wall, but suprisingly fear doesn’t rule me. Instead I switch my weight this way and that. I lever my body efficiently to holds otherwise out of reach. It all makes sense as the universe and I toy with each other, and I climb on reflected in the eyes of myself as a child.

A little further upwards and the tension is broken. I whoop and holler down to Leo. Too soon I do the last tricky mantle onto a thin ledge and the Grey Face, one of the best pitches I have ever climbed, is over.

We continue up the route, its reputation for consistency well founded, but we have completely relaxed into it by now. Leo wrestles with, then dispatches the off-width pitch 5, and I am left to pull airy, reachy moves around the bulges that guard the summit. We revel in the journey till the very last move.

Soon we stand and grin at each other from the gargoyled platform on top. The wonderland of Wolfberg wraps us up in its arms. Every now and again our faces spasm irrationally into wide smiles. It is still light but we stand there, tall, with our heads amongst the stars.

Celestial Blog-03986.jpg

Leo takes a rest on a ledge half-way up the route.

 

Celestial Blog-04005.jpg

Among the wonders on top.

Celestial Blog-2.jpg

Descending via the famous Wolfberg Cracks.

A little climbing jargon:

Route/line: the path a climb takes up a face

Pitch: one section of climbing that a long route is broken into

Onsight: to climb something without any prior knowledge

Free-solo: to climb without ropes for safety

Roulette: a famous test piece on Cape Town’s Table Mountain

Gear/Protection: metal items wedged into cracks then connected to the rope in order to catch a climber if they fall

Jamming: to lock ones fist in cracks as a hold

Crimping: to claw sharply on extremely small holds

Jug: a very good hold

Crux: the hardest part of a pitch

Mantle (formantle shelf): to pull one’s whole body up onto a ledge

Off-width: very wide cracks that are extremely awkward and strenuous to climb

Rocking Out, Namibian Style

SONY DSC

Words and images by Garrreth Bird

Some natural phenomena have atmospheres so unique they give the visitor the feeling of having drifted into a parallel dimension. A spectacular inselberg that bursts through the desert floor, Spitzkoppe introduces the parched plains of Namibia to the vertical dimension. Our group of hikers and climbers were set on getting to know the wilder sides of this fantastical land.

SONY DSC

Looking across onto ‘Sugarloaf’ from beneath Spitzkoppe. Our campsite is visible in the bottom right corner.

About 2.5 hours after leaving the capital Windhoek in our jeep a distinctive outline seared out of the desert plain. (Sedans can also easily cope with Namibia’s quality dirt roads.) In summer this area can be an oven, leaving you flabbergasted at the hardiness of the local people. But now it is winter, and though it’s chilly at night, the days are warm and clear.

As you approach the conservancy you start to feel its pull. Gigantic slabs of rock begin blocking out the windows. Massive boulders with nicknames like Jurassic Park and Dinosaur Rock spill everywhere. People have been drawn to these rocks for millennia, as can be seen by the San ‘Bushmen’ rock painting that dot the place. Our camping spot is epic, right below the towering South West Wall.

SONY DSC

The SouthWest wall is over 500 meters in height.

Park entrance and camping cost us about US$ 9 each per night. Basic chalets are available for around US$ 30. Knowledgeable local guides can be hired to fully investigate the area.

SONY DSC

Descending the spectacular Rhino Horn is a grand adventure unto itself.

Spitzkoppe is a rock climbing Mecca, with hundreds of routes that range from tricky walks to death-defying insanity-fests. But there are also countless hiking and scrambling opportunities that can see you up some pretty impressive features – like the ‘Pontoks’, a ridge of peaks lying adjacent to Spitzkoppe itself – without much need for any climbing chops. (The climbing and scrambling guide ‘Spitzkoppe and Pontoks – A climber’s Paradise’ is excellent, and available online or in Windhoek book stores.)

Nothing like a wild overhanging flake to start getting warmed up! Setting off up Active Side of Infinity. (25A0)

Nothing like a wildly overhanging flake early in the morning to get you warmed up! Grappling with The Active Side of Infinity, pitch 1 of 11, SW Wall. (25 A0)                            Pic: Leo le Roux

Of course, the summit of this idiosyncratic peak holds its own attraction.  The route up is a marvel of path finding, involving scrambling, lots of idiosyncratic chimney squeezing, and finally a few pitches of easy climbing, for which ropes and a basic rack of gear are required.

SONY DSC

Our crew on the hike up the ‘Normal Route’ to Spitzkoppe’s summit.

Remember though, that this is an abrasive environment. Always remember to take water and the essentials, but also your head torch, as you may well find yourself descending in the dark.

SONY DSC

Absailing down from the summit.

Speaking of essentials, water is a highly scarce resource in these parts, so it’s best to bring along a few 20 litre water containers, filled up in the city. (Get all your provisions there as well.) Once this water is finished, you can top up at the parks’ reception area, which also offers showers and a quaint restaurant/bar.

SONY DSC

Leo climbs through some outrageous formations at the top of the South West Wall Route. That desert floor is waaaay down there! Too awesome.

Back in camp after a long day on and around the cliffs, our musical instruments weave harmonies into our surroundings. Birds and animals emerge, made brave by the onset of night. Soon sparks crackle up from our fire to write syncopated rhythms on a dazzling ocean of stars, and as our eyes drift amongst its tides we are lulled into ancient time.

After a while you begin to suspect that time did not so much forget about this place as decide to use it to measure the rest of the universe.

It seems time did not so much forget this place as decide to use it to clock the universe.

The longer I spend here, the happier I am with less.  For every breath of the crisp, dry air I take, I step further outside myself, exfoliating another unnecessary layer. And as my personality becomes leaner, I become lighter on my feet. As I negotiate my body up these magnificent walls I move from being ‘in’ nature, to being a part of it, and my spirit opens up to the startling breadth of the sky.

It is a gift to revel so elementally. Suddenly something becomes blindingly obvious: desert time is the time of my life.

SONY DSC

Alone on a Wonder of the World

Joe Mohle solo on Farewell to Arms

Joe Mohle, UCT’s Sportsman of the Year for 2012, free solos on Table Mountain, the day after the mountain was officially inaugurated as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. Free soloing involves climbing without a rope to protect you in the event of a fall, allowing for maximum freedom of movement.

2012-12-03